Notes: In part 1, I said that the coil where the garter weaves in and out is for the heaters, no. I was wrong. They're actually what holds the seat up while keeping it springy and cushy. It's the bottom of cushion/springs, not heater coils. In part 4, I said that an old car charger for your phone wont work because of the thin wires, it's actually not true. I'm not sure if I corrected myself in the video but the reason why it won't work is because of the charger's internals. There's a small board in there that regulates the 12v and x amount of amps into whatever volts and 1 or 0.5 amps that way your phone's battery won't get cooked. This instructional/walk-through video was done as I installed the DVD headrests for the first time. It took me approximately 4-5 hours due to distractions, walking back and forth to the house to get things, filming the video, and finding different ways to do things neatly. The only "mess" in this whole install are the electrical tape residue which I cleaned afterwards. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes (all the trial and error I went through) and do yours in half the time. It's definitely possible. This video might also help you out even if you drive a different vehicle or have a different DVD headrest system. Aside from the finer details, the concept should be similar. If you choose to solder wires, be very careful not to burn the plastics, carpet, and/or leather/cloth in your vehicle. My method required minimum tools which consisted ...
Showing posts with label Black. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Black. Show all posts
2011 Toyota Sienna / Eonon L0236 (tan) 9" DVD headrest installation -- PART 1 of 5
on Friday, September 21, 2012
2011 Toyota Sienna / Eonon L0236 (tan) 9" DVD headrest installation -- PART 1 of 5 Video Clips. Duration : 15.07 Mins.
Notes: In part 1, I said that the coil where the garter weaves in and out is for the heaters, no. I was wrong. They're actually what holds the seat up while keeping it springy and cushy. It's the bottom of cushion/springs, not heater coils. In part 4, I said that an old car charger for your phone wont work because of the thin wires, it's actually not true. I'm not sure if I corrected myself in the video but the reason why it won't work is because of the charger's internals. There's a small board in there that regulates the 12v and x amount of amps into whatever volts and 1 or 0.5 amps that way your phone's battery won't get cooked. This instructional/walk-through video was done as I installed the DVD headrests for the first time. It took me approximately 4-5 hours due to distractions, walking back and forth to the house to get things, filming the video, and finding different ways to do things neatly. The only "mess" in this whole install are the electrical tape residue which I cleaned afterwards. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes (all the trial and error I went through) and do yours in half the time. It's definitely possible. This video might also help you out even if you drive a different vehicle or have a different DVD headrest system. Aside from the finer details, the concept should be similar. If you choose to solder wires, be very careful not to burn the plastics, carpet, and/or leather/cloth in your vehicle. My method required minimum tools which consisted ...
Notes: In part 1, I said that the coil where the garter weaves in and out is for the heaters, no. I was wrong. They're actually what holds the seat up while keeping it springy and cushy. It's the bottom of cushion/springs, not heater coils. In part 4, I said that an old car charger for your phone wont work because of the thin wires, it's actually not true. I'm not sure if I corrected myself in the video but the reason why it won't work is because of the charger's internals. There's a small board in there that regulates the 12v and x amount of amps into whatever volts and 1 or 0.5 amps that way your phone's battery won't get cooked. This instructional/walk-through video was done as I installed the DVD headrests for the first time. It took me approximately 4-5 hours due to distractions, walking back and forth to the house to get things, filming the video, and finding different ways to do things neatly. The only "mess" in this whole install are the electrical tape residue which I cleaned afterwards. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes (all the trial and error I went through) and do yours in half the time. It's definitely possible. This video might also help you out even if you drive a different vehicle or have a different DVD headrest system. Aside from the finer details, the concept should be similar. If you choose to solder wires, be very careful not to burn the plastics, carpet, and/or leather/cloth in your vehicle. My method required minimum tools which consisted ...
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DIY Hot-Wire Power Supply (Vid 2 of 2)
on Thursday, September 20, 2012
DIY Hot-Wire Power Supply (Vid 2 of 2) Video Clips. Duration : 9.75 Mins.
This is video 2 of 2 in my short series showing you how to build your own inexpensive, reliable, and safe power supply for heating the hot-wire for your foam-cutting equipment. Here is the parts list for items used in this build: MUST HAVE ITEMS: From Radio Shack... Enclosure (8"x6"x3", #270-1809) Transformer (25.2v, 2 amp, #273-1512B) Bind Post (#274-661) Banana Plugs (#274-721) From Lowes... Lutron Dimmer Switch (#D-600PH-DK) Nuts and bolts, or rivets for mounting components Additionally... An old AC power cord (2 or 3 prong) with appropriate plug Optional Parts I Recommend (from Radio Shack) Fuse Holder (#270-364) Fuse (250 volt, 2 amp, #270-1023) 120 volt Neon Lamp (#272-0704) For more information on this project, tune in to TheCrashCast podcast (in iTunes, or at www.TheCrashCast.com), episode #82. EDIT: A lot of people are sending me emails asking me technical questions about this design. Please note that I am NOT an electrical engineer and my knowledge in this area is quite limited. Following are the links to information that I based my design on: www.instructables.com www.charlesriverrc.org www.utahflyers.org Now if you want a power supply with LOTS of power, and have the savvy to build it, then I highly recommend your building one of these: www.nsrca.org I have one of these and use it for all of my wire lengths about 28".
This is video 2 of 2 in my short series showing you how to build your own inexpensive, reliable, and safe power supply for heating the hot-wire for your foam-cutting equipment. Here is the parts list for items used in this build: MUST HAVE ITEMS: From Radio Shack... Enclosure (8"x6"x3", #270-1809) Transformer (25.2v, 2 amp, #273-1512B) Bind Post (#274-661) Banana Plugs (#274-721) From Lowes... Lutron Dimmer Switch (#D-600PH-DK) Nuts and bolts, or rivets for mounting components Additionally... An old AC power cord (2 or 3 prong) with appropriate plug Optional Parts I Recommend (from Radio Shack) Fuse Holder (#270-364) Fuse (250 volt, 2 amp, #270-1023) 120 volt Neon Lamp (#272-0704) For more information on this project, tune in to TheCrashCast podcast (in iTunes, or at www.TheCrashCast.com), episode #82. EDIT: A lot of people are sending me emails asking me technical questions about this design. Please note that I am NOT an electrical engineer and my knowledge in this area is quite limited. Following are the links to information that I based my design on: www.instructables.com www.charlesriverrc.org www.utahflyers.org Now if you want a power supply with LOTS of power, and have the savvy to build it, then I highly recommend your building one of these: www.nsrca.org I have one of these and use it for all of my wire lengths about 28".
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